I was curious about this so-called Monte Carlo of Croatia. When I stumbled on the page of Amadria Park Milenij of Opatija (link here), the aesthetics pulled me in, especially its waterfront location and the stunning outdoor dining hall. It seemed like a beautiful place to conclude a week of Airbnbs in Rovinj and Pula, and indeed it was. However, I must admit, hospitality in European hotels always feel more like a business transaction and less a welcoming paradise to rusticate, even posh places like the Amadria. Much of that is to do with service: polite, cold and reticent to go for the extra mile (despite paying for one of the upper-end rooms, we couldn’t get a complimentary bottle of water).

Still, there were many good parts of our stay here too, most of which are related to the location and the Hapsburg architecture of the place. It sits right on the promenade, and a stone’s throw from the Opatija bus station. The views from the room are so romantic – makes you think of the great loves of the past. We spent the day strolling down the promenade with its art and souvenir stalls, ice cream vendors. The water is the kind I’ve become a big fan of – Adriatic translucence where you can see right to the bottom of the ocean. Breakfast is the usual Continental fare, nothing spectacular but the premise itself was the star – the stunning Cafe Wagner. Stone walls off-set against the riviera, and everything drips with vintage grandeur.

Some photos of our stay.