We completed our 2023 adventure safe and sound and left the city of Amman feeling enriched, humbled and as always with any stint in any place in the world, more inspired by life. It certainly was not long enough a time to truly understand the deeper face of the city and country, but it was time enough to know some verses to her rhythm.

We lived in Abdoun, the favoured neighbourhood for those in this industry given the location of the organisation and the many amenities and schools in the vicinity. Abdoun is basically the bougie expat central of Amman. Within a kilometer of our apartment, some of the main embassies are installed, along with multiple local groceries and small supermarkets, groomed gardens surrounding prestigous villas, cafes, gyms, restaurants, patisseries, local boutiques and beauty salons.

For a spot of coffee, head over to Kava Coffee Roasters for decent hot lattes set in the terrace outside, and wait for the local cats to come and befriend you. I’ve had a few relaxing morning coffees here with friends for a catch up as local cats perched on our laps. You can check their IG page here.

I was also a fan of Deja Brew, which is bigger with both a terrace and a second floor and a place to indulge in hot Spanish latte after morning pilates. You can pop by their IG page here, or their website here.

For a quick blow dry or mani-pedi for 10JDs, Jolie Femme was a good enough stopover with multiple offerings on their menu https://joliefemmesalon.com

Most of us did our groceries at Simply Cozmo supermarket – there are two small ones in Abdoun, one closer to Cairo Street and the other in the Farah Abdoun Complex (closer to the US Embassy side). Both have a fresh meat and vegetable section and other basic necessities to cook for the week and basic provisions to run your household.

I was a member of Gold’s Gym – it had two swimming pools both indoor and outdoor, an entire floor dedicated to only women, an indoor walking track and pilates and yoga classes (you can choose if you want a ladies only class or a mixed class). More on the gym at this link here.

For a taste of local shopping, there were Hands Gift Shop and Strings Attached.

Hands Gift Shop had dresses and kaftans from local and also European brands, homewares, costume jewelry, hats and bags.

Strings Attached is next to Cozmos supermarket, it sold mainly swimwear, beachwear and costume jewelry.

Most of all, we feel most connected to a place through our neighbourhood walks, either through my solitary walks to the office or together in the pre-dusk time slot. It’s a time to metabolise our thoughts and perspectives, to enjoy our local terrain, and take in little nuggets of the landscape such as the type of plants, trees and foliage that grew naturally here, the house proud way everyone manicured their bushes, the stonewashed villas set against the often clear blue skies and abundant feline colonies that roamed freely and confidently.

In our little home of four months, we had a tiny patch of green with palm trees and many days were spent nibbling on toasted pitta bread dipped in muttabal and hummous, either together or with company. I had the good luck of reconnecting with special soul friends and their families made back in the golden era of Ankara life over a decade ago, who now lived in the same neighbourhood and so poignant warm weekend afternoons were spent reminiscing on those halycon years of bright eyes and bushy tails.

In my last few days, and as the ominous outbreak of violent days started to populate the autumn months, I will remember Abdoun through these two lenses… watching a shepherd herd his flock just before getting to work and relaxing at a friends balcony as the call to prayer started. A place that stirs me with its spiritual submission, and also amuses me with its provincial manners.